El Zarandeado pays off
A gray snapper is split down the middle so perfectly and precisely that, after the spine is removed, the fish lies flat, flatter than any flounder. It’s arranged skin-side down with nothing but white flesh exposed, then covered in onions and a creamy, mustardy chile sauce before it’s baked into something you’ve never seen or tasted before.
Eating the City
Your new food editor checks in
I believe that food writing is never just about food. A region's cuisine is a reflection of that region itself.