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Across Rio Grande from Old Town, El Portal stands as a tiled monument to New Mexican food the tourists on the other side of the street don’t often get to experience. Monica’s been making everything on the spot—tortillas, chile, natillas, you name it—since she opened the place 33 years ago. The salsa doesn’t assume you’re some wimpy tourist: It’s chunky with fresh onions and a creeping heat that commands respect. The sopaipillas are some of the best in town and the red rocks. Or gorge yourself with burritos stuffed with green chile and chicharrónes. There’s a shaded patio, too.