alibi online
Free Will AstrologyAlibi's Personals
 
 V.19 No.16 | April 22 - 28, 2010 

Restaurant Review

The Fox and Hound

When you’re hunting for good bar food

Look, up on the bar! It’s a Margarita—it’s a Martini—it’s ... a Margatini!
Sergio Salvador salvadorphoto.com
Look, up on the bar! It’s a Margarita—it’s a Martini—it’s ... a Margatini!

Food is not a priority at sports bars. In fact, it’s usually little more than a fried piece of beer sponge. But at The Fox and Hound, hidden behind a tangled sprawl of restaurants west of I-25 at Jefferson, the food is taken seriously—frequently with good results.

Blackened mahi-mahi and bell-pepper-slivered “Jambalaya rice.”
Sergio Salvador salvadorphoto.com
Blackened mahi-mahi and bell-pepper-slivered “Jambalaya rice.”

With hip-hop music blaring, hundreds of televisions blasting every conceivable sport and waitresses dashing about the throngs of revelers, the place isn’t short on stimulation. But if you’re feeling sluggish, the Bible-length menu devotes a full page to combinations of alcohol and Monster energy drink. The Cougar Juice (Crown Royal and Monster) was mildly appealing, as was the O-Face (Monster with Bacardi). But I was there to watch some mixed martial arts fights, which had me amped enough, so I explored the beer menu and its section on pairing beer with foods. I learned that beer heavy on hops goes well with spicy food. Since I’m kind of a hoppy guy, I decided to test the theory with a Marble IPA and a Cajun spiced blackened mahi-mahi. To ensure that I would indeed test the hoppy/spicy combination, I asked for a bottle of hot sauce, which the waitress opened as she set down next to my plate.

I ended up not needing a single squirt of it because the dry-rubbed filet was perfectly spiced, and it mingled well in my mouth with the fragrant hops. Fresh tomato, cilantro, green onion and parsley proved to be a surprisingly thoughtful garnish for the fish and bell-pepper-slivered “Jambalaya rice.” It was topped with what was advertised as poblano remoulade sauce, but tasted like warm mayo. Never one to complain about the inclusion of mayo in my meal, I dug in happily, washing it down hoppily, while watching dudes bash each other’s faces in.

The meat was a tender puddle that fell apart along the grain lines and had gratuitous chunks of melted fat attached. I was a happy camper.

On a previous visit I tried a plate of beer-battered fish and chips that, despite being promoted by the menu as a “Fox Fave,” was uninspiring at best. The batter was bland and thick, with no taste of the Newcastle Nut Brown Ale it promised, and the fish pieces were thin. The coleslaw was soupy and the fries were soggy. Alongside that meal I drank a Patron Pomeade, with Patron Silver tequila, Cointreau orange liqueur and pomegranate juice. It was strong, but too sweet.

After my marvelous mahi-mahi, I asked the waitress, who called me “honey,” if there was anything less sweet on the drink menu. She confided that, unfortunately, most of their cocktails are at least this sweet, but she recommended the Pomegranate Margatini. Made with 1800 Silver Blue Agave tequila, Cointreau, pomegranate, and sweet and sour, it was the tastiest buzz I’ve had in a while.

On my next visit I ordered a leafy Caesar salad that was more tangy than creamy, and a “campfire” pot roast—kind of like an American version of beef bourguignon. The short rib roast was slow-cooked in wine sauce, served with buttery mashed potatoes and topped with thin frizz of onion rings. The meat was a tender puddle that fell apart along the grain lines and had gratuitous chunks of melted fat attached. I was a happy camper.

I flagged down the waitress who had done me right last time with the drink recommendation and asked if she had any other cocktail suggestions. To my surprise, she recommended the Sailor Jerry strawberry lemonade, which, while sweet, was adequately balanced with sour and contained a strawberry puree that was delicate and perfumey.

Between the pool tables, the many televisions, and the ambitious bar food and drink menu, there’s probably something for everyone at the Fox and Hound. While the menu does have its pitfalls, some of the dishes would make the trip worthwhile even you weren’t there for the tube. And if the game/fight/match/tournament is the impetus, you’ll probably be pleasantly surprised by the menu, though you may want to avoid sitting at the bar if you’re prone to getting distracted by cleavage.

View The Fox and Hound in Alibi Chowtown calendar

The Alibi recommends:

• Campfire pot roast
• Blackened mahi-mahi
• Sailor Jerry
• Pomegranate Margatini


The Fox and Hound

4301 The Lane @ 25 NE
344-9430
Hours: 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Monday through Saturday; 11 a.m. to midnight Sunday
Price range: Lunch specials start at $5.99. A combo platter entrée tops out at $15.49.
Vibe: Clean-cut and happily rowdy
Booze: Well, yes
Vegetarian options: Decent
Plastic: Yes
 

Today's Events

Downtown Growers' Market on Civic Plaza at Civic Plaza

Tomorrow's Events

Dine Out for Popejoy at Multiple Locations

Dine out at a participating restaurant, and proceeds go to support Popejoy Hall.

Friday

Zia-Bernalillo Farmers Market at Zia-Bernalillo Farmers Market

More Recommented Events ››
Join our mailing list for exclusive info, the week's events and free stuff!
 

  • Select sidebar boxes to add below. You can also click and drag to rearrange the boxes; close using the little X icons on each box. To re-add a box you closed, return to this menu.
  • Because you are not logged in, any changes you make to these boxes will vanish as soon as you click to another page. If you log in, the boxes will stick.
  • alibi.com
  • Latest Posts
  • Web Exclusives
  • Recent Rocksquawk Discussions
  • Recent Classifieds
  • Latest User Posts
  • Most Active Users
  • Most Active Stories
  • Calendar Comments
  • Upcoming Alibi Picks
  • Albuquerque
  • Duke City Fix
  • Albuquerque Beer Scene
  • What's Wrong With This Picture?
  • Reddit Albuquerque
  • ABQ Journal Metro
  • ABQrising
  • ABQ Journal Latest News
  • Del.icio.us Albuquerque
  • NM and the West
  • New Mexico FBIHOP
  • Democracy for New Mexico
  • Only in New Mexico
  • Mario Burgos
  • Democracy for New Mexico
  • High Country News
  • El Grito
  • NM Politics with Joe Monahan
  • Stephen W. Terrell's Web Log
  • The Net Is Vast and Infinite
  • Slashdot
  • Freedom to Tinker
  • Is there a feed that should be on this list? Tell us about it.
    DECKER / SAD BABY WOLF
    DECKER / SAD BABY WOLF10.23.2014