The 23 year-old Chicharroneria Orozco has for years inhabited a drafty adobe on Isleta. But this summer it set up shop in new digs on the north side of Bridge, just west of the river, in the same building that the underwhelming Siete Mares used to occupy.
Then a plate of chopped turkey tails arrives, flanked by a stack of fresh 4-inch corn tortillas, a mixture of chopped fresh onion and cilantro, limes, and a side of meaty beans, smoky with chicharrón.
Each mastication of the tacos built from these fried turkey coccyges brings a different texture: smooth meat, dripping fat, gangly gristle, soft bone, deep-fried crunch. Four grown men could easily share the same $10 order, each consuming approximately enough grease to drive a biodiesel van all the way to Santa Fe. It’s delicacies like these that make the South Valley a culinary frontier.