Alibi V.21 No.24 • June 14-20, 2012 
The cabana bowl: a pile of rice and beans on a thin, tostada-like shell of deep-fried   pastel   dough. A skewer of churrasco tops it off.

Dish Jockey

Waxing Brazilian

Jamon’s Frybread Cabana

The rise of the churrasco craze has given people a narrow, if somewhat authentic, view of Brazilian food. There are, indeed, a lot of churrascarias in Brazil—though in my five trips there I’ve yet to see a red-and-green block that you position according to how hungry you are. You can eat all the grilled chicken hearts you want, but until you’ve had rice and beans made by a Brazilian, you haven’t truly sampled the cuisine.

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