Lucia

Dissociative Identity Disorder (DID) is a psychiatric diagnosis that describes a condition in which a person displays multiple distinct identities or personalities (known as alter egos or, simply, alters), each with its own pattern of perceiving and interacting with the environment. In this review, I will use a journalistic trick of anthropomorphizing Lucia and its kitchen in an attempt to try to understand some strange, and somewhat bizarre, experiences that I along with my dining companions found on our two visits to Lucia.

The occasion of my first visit was to celebrate with my wife our 33rd wedding anniversary last May. I had heard and read glowing accounts of Lucia from many trusted gastronomes, including my friend Gil Garduño. They didn't lie: Our experience that night was perfect - -a term that I use with great care.

King Crab Legs first course with a hint of red chile were superb. Not the usual treatment afforded these sweet morsels (waterlogged and served with insipid drawn butter). A plate of grilled oysters with smoked chile-chive-oil mojo Has been best described by Ari LeVaux in his charming Alibi review, and I concur with every word. The Seared Sea Scallops & Sugared Shrimp have been expertly described by my friend Forked Tongue writing in these Urbanspoon pages. I can't add anything new, nor can I say it better. The very best seafood entrée I have had in New Mexico. Even the chocolate cake was incredible -- something very special.

Service was perfect. The rehab of the Hotel Andaluz is stunning. After our meal, we spent some time in the hotel lobby listening to a young (and very good) salsa band, to which many of the guests were dancing. Go there. Revel in the experience.

I wanted to share this experience with dear friends Sally and Andy from Taos, both seasoned gastronomes, so Jane and I took them to Lucia for brunch on July fourth. We had raved to them about our perfect anniversary dinner, and were quite surprised to find the perfect Lucia replaced by an alter, who appeared to be a trickster. Our food was inconsistent. My Lemon-Ricotta pancakes were close to being perfect. Texture and taste were exemplary. Andy's coffee drink, a shot in the dark (which he instructed our server how to make), was perfect -- the best he had ever had. Then things started to slide downhill. Three poached egg dishes were poorly prepared (yolks were hard. Like hard boiled eggs.). Our server (David, a charming, effervescent, and efficient UNM Computer Engineering student) had the kitchen redo her eggs, which came out correctly the second time. The accompanying rosemary potatos were a disappointment. Ho Hum. We ordered a basket of pastries and scones. They were delivered to the table ice cold and late. The server remedied this, and, once warmed slightly, they were fabulous. And so it went.

So, the trickster alter got us. Not that the meal was bad -- it still, despite the kitchen gaffes, was quite good. Lucia has aspersions to greatness. In order to climb to that pinnacle, perhaps they need a psychologist to reconcile the alters. I will be happy to recommend one. I live with her.

You will notice that I gave Lucia the highest rating that this software will allow. Remember that I said that our first meal there was perfect. I fully expect that consistency and attention to detail will lead to greatness. The trickster has to go. I surely will return. I hope I don't find a third alter.