The Alibi is launching a terrific new food column in this issue. The idea behind Dish Jockey is to illuminate Albuquerque’s culinary underbelly, exploring some of the more unusual cuisines and dishes to be found here. Each micro-review highlights just one specialty of the house—a dish so singular, it deserves to have a whole column to itself. We’re starting things off with two helpings of exotic soups— Talking Drums’ African goat pepper stew and Arirang’s Korean soon tofu. Have a suggestion for a for another Dish Jockey fixation? Post a comment here or email email@example.com.
At a conference in Las Vegas, Nev., a few weeks ago, I snuck off to the city’s fabulous Chinatown at every opportunity. Intrigued by all the “tofu houses” I saw, I assumed there were a lot of vegetarians in town. But no, the presence of tofu does not mean the absence of meat. Soon tofu (also spelled soon dubu) is a spicy Korean soup loaded with curdles of extra-silky tofu and meat—and often a raw egg that quickly cooks in the steaming bowl.
Ahmed Obo, the owner/chef at Jambo Café in Santa Fe, was born on the island of Lamu off the coast of Kenya. There, he grew up among the culinary traditions of Africa, Arabia and India. The food at Jambo reflects the Lamu style of culinary fusion. It’s designed to be interesting and different but doesn’t attempt to force anyone too far from their comfort zone. The ingredients, including a host of local meats and veggies, is priced unusually low for a restaurant dealing in clean, local food.