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V.22 No.17 | 4/25/2013
 
Pictoscribe-Home Again (CC BY-NC-ND 2.0)

Feature

Gardening at Night

An ode to the growing season

Brendan Doherty waxes poetic agout the growing season, seed catalogs and Italian kale and shares a recipe for colcannon.

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V.21 No.26 | 6/28/2012
Hale and hearty kale
Joyosity / CC by 2.0

Food for Thought

Kids and Kale Chips

Scientifically proven not to make them go, “Eeeeew.”

Kale is succeeding where spinach and other green things have consistently failed: getting swallowed by children. The key is to bake the kale into crispy chips. In a series of taste tests conducted in Montana, it was determined that kids will eagerly turn their mouths green with extra helpings.

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Food

Scapes on a train

Scapes on the plain
Ari LeVaux
Scapes on the plain

No, not snakes on a plane. Scapes on a train—or more specifically, garlic stalks stir-fried with pork and oyster sauce in the dining car of a Chinese train bound for Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia. In this week’s Food Section, globetrotting food critic Ari LeVaux talks about the pulse-quickening moment he first encountered garlic flowers and stalks—collectively called scapes. Scapes are in season right now, and preparing them at home is inexpensive and easy. (Unlike some of the other international train rides Ari has taken.)

    V.21 No.23 | 6/7/2012
     

    Food for Thought

    Great Scapes

    The loveliness of garlic flowers

    The first time I ate garlic flowers was for breakfast on a train from Beijing to Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia. The dining car didn't have a menu: You just sat down and they brought you food. A server delivered a plate of stir-fried chopped green things with pork and oyster sauce, along with a bowl of rice. It was years before that I realized that the pencil-thick green things were pieces of garlic flowers and flower stalks, collectively known as scapes.

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    Food

    Hollandaise for dummies

    Saucy!
    JO-H / CC BY 2.0
    Saucy!

    The chickens are laying again, the greens and onions are up, and the days are getting longer: Brunch season is here. I've been practicing a simple dish of poached eggs served on a bed of spinach and asparagus, garnished with crispy pieces of salt pork or bacon. Sometimes I drench the whole business in a blanket of hollandaise sauce. Or more often, it’s a blanket of failed hollandaise that I resurrect to perfection with mayonnaise and a microwave. Read all about it in this week’s Food section.

      V.21 No.20 | 5/17/2012
      Saucy!
      JO-H / CC BY 2.0

      Food for Thought

      Brunching With the Benedicts

      Or, hollandaise for dummies

      The chickens are laying again, the greens and onions are up, and the days are getting longer: Brunch season is here. I've been practicing a simple dish of poached eggs served on a bed of spinach and asparagus, garnished with crispy pieces of salt pork or bacon. Sometimes I drench the whole business in a blanket of hollandaise sauce. Or more often, it’s a blanket of failed hollandaise that I resurrect to perfection with mayonnaise and a microwave.

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      Food

      Grind your own damn burger

      Fixin’ to grind your own hamburger?
      Ari LeVaux
      Fixin’ to grind your own hamburger?

      Even if the weather’s not up for it tonight, you can plan on a dandy weekend for grilling burgers by fridge-defrosting a few of the neglected hunks of meat from the back of your freezer. In this week’s Food section, Ari LeVaux shares his tips on turning top round, sirloin steaks or whatever meaticles you’ve got on hand into awesome homemade patties.

        V.21 No.17 | 4/26/2012
        Fixin’ to grind your own hamburger?
        Ari LeVaux

        Food for Thought

        Ground and Browned

        Burgers from scratch

        Now seems like a good time to point out how easy it is to grind your own burger in the food processor. Grill season is starting, pink slime is everywhere and, for once, wouldn't it be nice to have a burger that isn't basically mystery meat? While most households don't have meat grinders, your old La Machine or Cuisinart can get it done like a champ.

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        V.21 No.12 | 3/22/2012
        A tough buck becomes soft and tender after a few hours in the Dutch oven.
        Ari LeVaux

        Eating In

        Braise the Ante

        Turning chewy, cheap cuts into lusciously flavorful food

        Coffee and red wine are two of my favorite beverages to drink with meat. Given how much braising I do, it was only a matter of time until I tried braising meat in a mixture of coffee and wine. The results are exceptional: a browned, flavorful exterior and spoon-tender, succulent interior.

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        V.21 No.6 | 2/9/2012
        Chef Jonathan Perno
        Sergio Salvador salvadorphoto.com

        Eating In

        A Recipe for Love

        Albuquerque’s best chefs share a five-star dinner at home

        All right, sweethearts, here’s the deal. Valentine’s Day is on Tuesday, which means restaurants are booked solid or filling up fast. If you haven’t already made a reservation, you could be gambling with your love life. But there’s no need to panic.

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