Flash in the Pan
This Just In: Tofu Doesn’t Suck
In defense of the bean curd
Dish Jockey: Eating our way through the Duke City, one dish at a time
The Alibi is launching a terrific new food column in this issue. The idea behind Dish Jockey is to illuminate Albuquerque’s culinary underbelly, exploring some of the more unusual cuisines and dishes to be found here. Each micro-review highlights just one specialty of the house—a dish so singular, it deserves to have a whole column to itself. We’re starting things off with two helpings of exotic soups— Talking Drums’ African goat pepper stew and Arirang’s Korean soon tofu. Have a suggestion for a for another Dish Jockey fixation? Post a comment here or email firstname.lastname@example.org.
At a conference in Las Vegas, Nev., a few weeks ago, I snuck off to the city’s fabulous Chinatown at every opportunity. Intrigued by all the “tofu houses” I saw, I assumed there were a lot of vegetarians in town. But no, the presence of tofu does not mean the absence of meat. Soon tofu (also spelled soon dubu) is a spicy Korean soup loaded with curdles of extra-silky tofu and meat—and often a raw egg that quickly cooks in the steaming bowl.
When good things come in pretty packages
My favorite Vietnamese restaurants are the durable type. With worn floors, and few frills beyond a TV on mute and perhaps a jungle of real and fake plants, those tired-looking dives are often full of Vietnamese customers, and for good reason. They serve the real stuff, unfiltered and unedited for an American audience.