El Taco Tote

El Taco Tote in Albuquerque is one of a Southwestern and Mexican chain of fast-food shops that serves up some surprisingly good Mexican street food. Tacos, enchiladas, burritos, quesadillas, panchos, and more. It also serves up some not-so-surprisingly mediocre stuff, but whaddya expect -- after all, it IS a chain. Let's get the mediocrities out of the way first: You should shun the frijoles and arroz. The refritos are tasteless (bland) with a gluey texture, and the red rice is, well, tasteless (bland) with a gluey texture. Just say no.

The meats are high quality and very flavorful, with delicate spicing that allows the taste of the meats to shine through. The pork adobada tacos and the top sirloin quesadillas are notable for the flavor of the meat. The tortillas (flour or corn) are house made and grilled to a pinto-like hue, and actually have a taste.

Perhaps what sets El Taco Tote (The Huge Taco) apart from its fast-food competitors is the condiment, or fixin's, station. There are at least five salsas, made fresh daily, and wonderfully picante. Each one is among the best-of-breed. Pico de gallo, pickled onions, shredded lettuce, various peppers, and much more add to the ability to customize your meal. These condiments are fresh and remarkably tasty. Load up your plate from this bar and you won't miss the beans or the rice.

This is authentic and enjoyable stuff. It is not dumbed down or Americanized like that awful stuff served up at the Taco Bells (and others of its ilk) of the world. Nice clean place. Nice servers and order takers. I'll be back.