Alibi V.27 No.8 • Feb 22-28, 2018 

Restaurant Review

¿Sí Se Puede? Yes, You Did!

Bocadillos serves solid sammies

Reuben sandwich
Reuben sandwich
Eric Williams Photography
One of the things I love about New Mexico is how, for decades, in almost every town, one of the best burritos you could get came from the trunk of someone’s car. And from similar humble beginnings, and through changes in location, Bocadillos is every bit that same old New Mexico story—only more so. These days, right off Lomas between Second and Third Streets, tucked into the west side of the Wells Fargo building’s ground floor is Bocadillos Sandwich Shop. If you were lucky enough to swing by before they closed their window at Green Jeans Farmery, you know the kind of quality you’re in for … but if you haven’t, you’ll soon know where you’ll be grabbing lunch next time you’re Downtown.

It was a lunch I had first, a little early in the day to beat the noon rush. There was no line, but a mellow bustle of hungry folks grew as our order was made. Still, like our land of mañana, it was relaxing and stress-free, with the food arriving quickly. And while it seems not all the offerings mentioned online are always available, I had no trouble finding several sandwiches to try. The 505 Philly ($9.50) was a salty, smoky bite, hot and juicy sliced beefsteak in Bocadillos’ own version of the sandwich that (rumor has it) has fed Philadelphia since the ’30s. The house-made queso, green chile, and blend of bell pepper and mushrooms is plenty—but I would’ve taken grilled onions too. The Cubano ($8.50) had both the sweet and hot of the chile sauce, the crunch of bacon and melted Muenster married with that luscious, sugar-roasted pork. Pickles and raw red onion added a tangy snap to each bite, making the Cubano my front-runner for best sandwich … until I tried the 505 Filthy ($8.50). The Filthy managed the perfect balance of house-made sauce, fresh veggies and the thin-sliced love of the chicken breast, salty bacon and the warm, bright heat of the green chile. The sandwiches all come on the same style whole wheat bun—an airy soft-crust with a touch of salt. It soaks up all the juices from the slow-roasted proteins perfectly, while staying sturdy enough to set the sandwich down between bites. And you’ll have to, because the portions are generous.

So, in answer to the staff t-shirt’s “Sí, se puede,” I offer a resounding “Yes, you did.”

When it comes to the sides, as with everything else, the handmade quality is what makes them all worth trying. With the chipotle potato salad it was the crunch of celery, fresh onion, a little pickle and red pepper flakes in the chipotle-scented mayo that made this salad a hit. In the coleslaw it was the mellow, drier-than-most use of dairy plus honey mustard, leaving the vegetables on full display. The tomato feta artichoke heart salad was packed with so many surprising Mediterranean notes, maybe even a hint of citrus. I love it when sides aren’t dashed off as afterthoughts, and recommend trying any that sound up your alley.

For breakfast, I went with the New Mexico standard—the breakfast burrito, opting to try a couple. The first, the Duke City Hash burrito ($5.50), was anything but your typical offering. Wrapped in that giant tortilla were some pickled bell peppers, potato, cheese, green chile and eggs—with the slow-roasted corned beef that typically makes its way into the lunch Reuben. As expected, it was juicy and tender corned beef and, despite not seeming to at first, made perfect sense when all put together. If I order it again, I’ll take some extra chile to ramp it up—but it was a fine and filling bite. The Burque burrito ($4.25), while more traditional, was anything but dull. I went with chorizo and green chile, which I’m sure I don’t have to tell you, is the ideal complement to the potatoes, cheddar and eggs of burritos the city over. The giant, silky and deliciously smoky blend was a mighty sturdy start to the day that’ll warm your inner hearth.

Eric Williams Photography
In total, it’s a confluence of terrific eats, a charming and close-knit crew with deep interest in local teams and athletic talent, and a new Downtown location. Bocadillos is poised once more to become another of Albuquerque’s downtown dining institutions. Chef Marie Yniguez and her girl-power team keep bobbing and weaving, making solid moves while staying New Mexico true. So, in answer to the staff t-shirt’s “Sí, se puede,” I offer a resounding “Yes, you did.”

Bocadillos Slow Roasted Sandwiches

200 Lomas Blvd. NW, Ste 110
243-3995
Hours: Mon-Fri: 8am-3pm


Alibi
Recommends: Breakfast: Burque burrito with chorizo; Lunch: The 505 Filthy—and order extra sides so you don’t miss out on any!
Vibe: A small space tucked into the Wells Fargo building that’s definitely worth the trip.