In two visits to I Love Sushi, I witnessed four birthdays. Having never partied there myself, I asked a sushi chef to fill in the blanks on why the place is such a popular birthday destination.

Can anybody be taught to cook?

Oh absolutely, it just takes a little bit of heart. But as far as training goes, you just need to want to learn how to cook and you can be taught.

When did you start?

I started making tortillas when I was probably about 5 with my grandmother. I grew up on, not a farm, but we grew our own vegetables. And I have always enjoyed playing in the kitchen with my grandmother, rolling tortillas and baking cookies.

How long have you cooked professionally?

Well, I started my career 17 years ago at Scalo, then I left and went to various other restaurants. I have been running Brasserie La Provence down the street since April. And I started [as executive chef] at Scalo in the beginning of September.

You can see the painted palm trees from I-25 and Osuna, where Barry’s Oasis lives up to its name as a reprieve from the blistering concrete just outside the door. Inside, the high-ceilinged dining room is decorated like a beachy patio. There are faux balconies crowded with potted plants. Umbrellas shade tables and hang overhead, diffusing sunshine from skylights set into the seagull-adorned ceiling.