red chile


V.21 No.30 | 7/26/2012
Eric Williams ericwphoto.com

Locovore

Ben Michael’s

The house that Ben built

If you’re on any kind of schedule, you should probably avoid Ben Michael’s restaurant on even a half-busy evening. The slow-moving spectacle that often passes for service will be frustrating if there’s some other place you need to be. But if you aren’t in a hurry, that same chaos could pass as entertainment. And if you show up during a quiet lunch hour and you’re the only one there, expect to be treated like royalty.

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V.21 No.25 | 6/21/2012
The deliciously chilI-dog-esque savory waffle boat
Eric Williams ericwphoto.com

Locovore

Tía Betty Blue’s

What’s red and green and blue all over?

The appeal of Tía Betty Blue’s might seem skin-deep at first. The paint is fresh. The food comes fast enough to service a drive-thru window. A collection of bottled soda pops is so vast, it could be a gimmick. And the image of a raven-haired hottie—Tía Betty Blue, presumably—stares you down from the sign, the walls, the menu. But despite its candy-coated veneer, Tía B’s means business. The food is simple but thoughtful, and it’s different. And as long as food is the priority, who cares how cute the servers are?

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V.19 No.41 | 10/14/2010
Tamale heaven
Sergio Salvador salvadorphoto.com

Restaurant Review

El Modelo

Soul model

Which is better: having the best location and the worst tamales, or the best tamales and the worst location? Only soul-free capitalists would choose the former, while a soulful stream of Burqueños regularly choose the tamales at El Modelo.

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V.19 No.7 | 2/18/2010
Blue-corn-piñon pancakes have plenty of whole nuts.
Sergio Salvador salvadorphoto.com

Restaurant Review

Cecilia’s Café

Cable darling, red chile queen

It was a cold and snowy Sunday morning when I first went to Cecilia’s. The air smelled like piñon smoke. Inside, it was still chilly sitting by the old brick wall at the south end of the dining room. I noticed a wood stove at the other end, so I switched seats. There was a woman sitting next to the stove sorting a big sack of pinto beans.

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