Salad

salad


V.21 No.30 | 7/26/2012
Eric Williams ericwphoto.com

Locovore

Ben Michael’s

The house that Ben built

If you’re on any kind of schedule, you should probably avoid Ben Michael’s restaurant on even a half-busy evening. The slow-moving spectacle that often passes for service will be frustrating if there’s some other place you need to be. But if you aren’t in a hurry, that same chaos could pass as entertainment. And if you show up during a quiet lunch hour and you’re the only one there, expect to be treated like royalty.

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V.21 No.28 | 7/12/2012
Park it here.
Eric Williams ericwphoto.com

Food

Park yourself at the Skarsgard Farms Harvest Truck tomorrow morning

The newest food truck to cruise through Albuquerque is also the freshest: The Harvest Truck is an enticing prepared foods project from Skarsgard Farms (née Los Poblanos Organics) CSA, offering a weekly changing lineup of burritos, salads, sandwiches and smoothies—in some cases, made with ingredients pulled from the ground that very morning. For now, the Harvest happens at Los Ranchos Growers’ Market on Saturdays from 7 a.m. to 1 p.m.

Park it here.
Eric Williams ericwphoto.com

Locovore

The Harvest Truck

CSA powerhouse unveils organic meals on wheels

A food truck, like a restaurant, is a logical vehicle for a farmer to add value to his or her product. It seems like an obvious idea, but until the Skarsgard Farms’ Harvest Truck got on the road, no area farms had stepped up to that plate. Now a month into this endeavor, farm/truck owner Monte Skarsgard has a contract with UNM to sell food at the Duck Pond five days a week starting in August. He says he already has plans for a fleet of trucks.

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V.21 No.22 | 5/31/2012
The giant green chile cheeseburger
Eric Williams ericwphoto.com

Locovore

Holy Cow

The omnivore’s deliverance

More and more, hamburgers are treated as high art. And Holy Cow is among Albuquerque’s vanguard of upscale burger parlors. The outdoor patio—on Central where Bob’s Fish and Chips used to be—is protected by a corrugated roof. Inside, you can dine on hamburgers at a table or the bar. The feeling is rowdy and friendly. A portrait of a single word, “burgers,” hangs from an otherwise bare wall.

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V.20 No.45 | 11/10/2011
Breakfast pizza
Sergio Salvador salvadorphoto.com

Locovore

Café Lush

Eclectic breakfast and lunch on a quiet Downtown corner

Café Lush is like a daydream of the way things might be in some future hybrid of Europe and Albuquerque. It’s an urban café on a quiet street corner, with a small menu of simple yet well-crafted dishes and a pledge to use local, seasonal and organic ingredients whenever possible. But unlike in Europe, the red and green chile won’t disappoint—unless you’re a member of the New Mexico anticumin coalition.

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V.20 No.27 | 7/7/2011
“Plant offal” includes carrot tops and spinach bottoms.
Ari LeVaux

Flash in the Pan

Robbing the Compost Pile

Carrot tops, spinach bottoms and the whole radish

The preparation and consumption of animal offal has become trendy in recent years. From headcheese to braised pig feet, there are all sorts of ways of turning animal refuse into delicacies. And while plant offal hasn't exactly become the new rage, B-list plant parts can be incorporated into tasty meals as well. Ari LeVaux provides recipes for three such underused ingredients: spinach roots and the greens of carrots and radishes.
V.20 No.25 | 6/23/2011
The pastries are made in-house. The coffee is roasted in the East Mountains.
Sergio Salvador salvadorphoto.com

Locovore

Jo’s Place

There’s nothing average about this Jo

If you had to pick a single Albuquerque street on which to dine for the rest of your life, you could do worse than Fourth. The diversity of restaurants on this North Valley artery is matched by a uniform unpretentiousness, as if by some silent but Spanglish-speaking truce. Dennis Apodaca has built a restaurant empire on a single half-mile stretch of that pavement. First came Sophia’s Place, named after his daughter. Then came Ezra’s Place, named after his son. And finally Jo’s Place, named after his mom, joined the block party in March.

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V.20 No.23 | 6/9/2011
Eggs Benedict is a plateful of good mornin’.
Sergio Salvador salvadorphoto.com

Locovore

Cafe Green

Fresh ideas in seasonal cuisine

Meat, of all the ingredients a restaurant serves, is arguably the most deserving of care in how it is sourced. Unless, perhaps, the name of the restaurant in question is Cafe Green. At the three-year-old Downtown breakfast and lunch joint, the greens of both the salad and the chile persuasions are local. And some of the meat on the menu is too, if you consider Pueblo, Colo, to be local. (We do.)

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V.20 No.16 | 4/21/2011
By summertime, you’ll be looking at this.
Ari LeVaux

Food for Thought

Three Gardens in One

A springtime strategy for maximum yields

Searching for the best crops to plant with garlic, Ari LeVaux developed a technique called "tossing seeds randomly." He put all the seeds he didn't get around to planting last year into a jar, shook it up and threw them by handfuls. This experiment produced the "garlic patch friends" and a springtime strategy for maximum yields.
V.20 No.11 |

news

The Daily Word: .xxx, menthols, fast food

The Daily Word

Super moon.

Roundhouse 2011: Bills on driver's licenses, social promotion and capital outlay fail.

Gov. Martinez promises to veto a tax that would keep New Mexico's unemployment fund afloat.

The cleanest fast-food joints in town.

First lady gives APS teacher a grant to install a salad bar at his school. But APS doesn't want it.

30 puppies may be euthanized in Las Cruces.

Missile hits a building in Gaddafi's compound. France and Libya could be at it for a while, the countries say.

Fire breaks out on the roof of a nuclear reactor in Japan.

Menthols may be harder to quit, says FDA.

Porn industry and religious groups unite in hatred over .xxx web suffix.

Rich countries are eating so much quinoa, Bolivians (who lived of it for centuries) can't afford it.

The world's most perfect steak can be found in Idaho, says globe-circling book writer.

The 400-pound marathoner.

V.20 No.5 | 2/3/2011
Greens in the mix

Food for Thought

Salad Factory

Breaking frozen ground on a spring garden

My baby mama spends about $5,000 a year on salad makings: lettuce, escarole, radicchio, kale, celery and parsley, as well as olive oil, cider vinegar, soy sauce and whatever we run out of from the root cellar. So far we’re good on garlic, almost out of carrots, out of onions, and our beets sucked last year, so she buys those, too.

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V.19 No.29 | 7/22/2010
Peas and mutton make a marvelous meal.
Ari LeVaux

Eating In

Field of Greens

The right way to work meat into your lettuce

Commercial salads these days seem designed for people who don't like salad. They're essentially meat entrées served on a bed of leaves, minus the baked potato. And if you watch a server removing plates from the table, you'll see they usually aren't empty. The cold cuts, cheese, croutons, shrimp and/or chicken are gone, but the greenery is left behind like an abandoned garnish. The very fact that the proteins and fat are presented on top, rather than mixed in, seems to ensure an errant leaf won’t be inadvertently consumed.

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Food

Vegetables I Have Known

Oh beets, with your vivid, royal coloring, the shock of hot pink spiraling through you like Mother Nature’s own blacklight poster. I am so in love, I clicked on a NYT recipe for a salad of shredded you. My eyes juiced your image, regarded only briefly the measurements and directions, and then returned to you, a root the color of guts in my dreams.

Follow the recipe or throw caution to the wind as I did and trust your own gut as it resonates with the most bewitching of vegetable forms. (How could I have ever scoffed at still lifes?)

Let the juices stain your fingers as you shred the mighty beet with your common cheese grater. Squeeze in half a lemon after scornfully discarding the seeds. Taste. Another half a lemon, then, or not. Do the same with oranges.

Drizzle just the slightest bit of olive oil. Tip your palm cupping just a touch of salt. Stir. Taste.

Make a lot. Over days in your fridge, the flavors commingle and mellow. The citrus, less bright. The beet, less earthy.

Like ĺkaros, my ambition spurred me to dig up yet more roots for grating. The passé carrot found new life with sesame oil. Since I posses no mixing bowl and own only, instead, a purple Kool Aid pitcher, I shoveled my pile of three shredded carrots into this container. Sesame oil goes far, flavor-wise, so a few drops was all this dish required. Next, peeled tomatoes, chopped and strained, were added as a second layer. A touch of sweet Mirin and rice vinegar spilled onto those.

A little salt goes a long way in this dish, too. A couple of hearty stirs dispersed the tomatoes and carrots. (Not too many, or the delicate flesh of the tomato may be pulverized.) Once served, top with unadorned avocado.

V.19 No.17 | 4/29/2010
Pineapple red curry—spicy, sweet, fragrant and creamy with coconut
Sergio Salvador salvadorphoto.com

Restaurant Review

Thai Cuisine II

A garden of surprises

Stepping into the pragmatically named Thai Cuisine II is like taking a 15-hour plane ride in the blink of an eye. While it’s not exactly Thailand inside, the dining room is a pleasant sanctuary, warmly painted in earthy red and sunset orange, and hung with near-florescent paintings of colorful, idyllic scenes. You quickly forget that you just walked into a red metal roofed A-frame that looks like an old Dairy Queen.

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V.18 No.39 | 9/24/2009

Bite

We're nearing the end of the stone fruit season (apricots, peaches, nectarines and the like), and tomatoes are really rocking, so why not throw them together? Just like throwing a little salt on your dessert, these two fruits offer flavors and textures that complement and contrast each other; both are acidic, both are (or should be) sweet and both have a lusty, oozy nature that prompts slurping and licking. It was only a matter of time before they ended up on the cutting board together. Are peach soups and tomato cobblers in the not-so-distant future?

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