The pho is fragrant, the coffee is strong and sweet, and ordinary dishes are interesting because you want to know how this kitchen is going to finish it. Spring rolls are a level above others, well-rolled and multi-textured. This place has one of the crispiest papaya salads in town; the salad topped with two flavors of beef jerky is especially out of hand. A steamed tilapia dish yields white, flaky fish bathed in a dark, black peppery sauce and is flanked with broccoli and carrots. Nice looking desserts, wine and saki.