Taste of the Town
So many dishes, so little me
By Mina Yamashita
Writing about food draws on an archive of vivid memories. When I’m asked, “What’s your favorite food (or chef, or restaurant)?” I have a range of answers depending on the circumstance. But no matter how many places I visit, I count on certain dishes to satisfy my soul.
It’s primal, maybe genetic—sushi is my womb-food. I go to the Japanese Kitchen for chirashizushi—a mind-bending assortment (chef’s choice) of sashimi garnished with pickles, shredded daikon and wasabi served over a bed of sushi rice. When I lived in Santa Fe, I worked in a publishing house within walking distance of a half-dozen Japanese restaurants. There are many places in the Duke City that serve passable-to-outstanding sushi. I always marvel that so much raw fish gets to New Mexico.
Café Green has the classic eggs Benedict down pat. Any time a chef knows how to Hollandaise a perfectly poached egg, he/she is on my list. But, Gold Street Caffè’s Southwest eggs Benedict is unbeatable with the addition of its signature red-chile-glazed bacon and green chile biscuits. The biscuits are so crisp-tender, I prefer them to any English muffin.
“Two over easy, hash browns, sausage and whole wheat toast, easy on the hash browns.” I’ve lost count of the number of times I’ve placed that ordered—at Hurricane’s, Milton’s or any number of diners—because I know that if I find a place with a greasy spoon menu and a full parking lot, I’ll find the breakfast of my childhood.
Everyone has a menu of restaurant dishes that satisfy when all else looks like dust. If you have a dish that tops your list, I’d love to hear about it and where in Burque you go for the best version.
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