There are certain parts of town where you don’t see restaurants. Residential areas, warehouse districts, places where the road zips by too busy and fast for any sort of eatery to catch your eye. The intersection of Washington and Zuni, with Highland High taking up a acreage to the east and Nob Hill’s residential districts to the west, is one of these areas (unless you count Pizza Hut, but come on). Or rather, it was. The first time I saw Kasey’s Restaurant & Pub, I couldn’t help but do a double take. True, I’d often taken note of the incongruous barn-like building it now occupied, wondering what it had been in the years before I came to Albuquerque, but that barn had always been empty as far as I could tell. No more. Kasey’s Restaurant & Pub has taken over the old barn and converted it into an upscale eatery. Not to say that the location doesn’t still have some quirks, mind you. Inside, the tablecloths are white, and the room is bright and airy, but rather sterile for a steakhouse. Outside, there’s a lovely tree-shaded patio, but the traffic noise from Washington makes for constant interruptions to thought and conversation. Fortunately, the food is good enough to smooth over those kinks in the atmosphere. Billing itself as “New American,” Kasey’s makes good on that implicit promise by offering a fusion-happy menu with pulled pork eggrolls nestling beside banh mi, hamburgers and select cuts of steak. My wife and I arrived on a pleasant summer evening and took our seats on the leafy patio. A handful of other guests were seated nearby, engaged in lively conversation that rose and fell with the rhythm of traffic. In addition to “restaurant,” Kasey’s has also taken on the label of “pub,” which, uh, may be pushing it, but let’s just consider that shorthand for “decent beer selection.” Indeed, the taps sport some of New Mexico’s local favorites from Alien, La Cumbre, Santa Fe and Marble brewing companies, as well as a fine lineup of cans and bottles. And there’s wine, too, for those of you with more refined tastes than me. Come during happy hour and you can knock a buck off the drafts. I satisfied myself with a Marble red, a crisp and malty ale that sports enough hop flavor to keep things interesting, but not so much as to be overwhelming like so many of Albuquerque’s brews.The chef has put some real thought into the appetizers, and an only-peckish diner could be well satisfied with one of the choices. Our favorites turned out to be of the eggroll variety: red-chile pulled pork off of the regular menu; a reuben eggroll off of the happy-hour. Both featured a perfectly-crisped shell, though I was most taken by the corned beef filling in the reuben roll. The chile in the pulled pork was a tad too mild for my taste. but the coleslaw that accompanied it made for a refreshing interlude.Moving along to entrées, there are three cuts of steak to choose from, all from New Mexican, grass fed cattle: fillet, NY strip and rib eye. I’m a fan of marbling, so I went straight for the ribeye. It was cooked beautifully and just fatty enough to make it the flavorful triumph I was hoping for. Even better, Kasey’s offers four compounded butters to slather over the top of your meat. As a New Mexican, I had no choice but to try the red chile and lime butter, which added a touch of tangy, spicy interest. If you’re not up for steak, there are plenty of other entrées to choose from, including a burger and several salads. My wife was looking for something a little lighter than beef so she gave the fish tacos a whirl. The tacos, with fried catfish nestled among zingy pickled radish and a dribbling of Sriracha, were very good, though the tortilla was a bit on the oily side. For dessert, we went with the server’s recommendation and ordered the pineapple foster. Carmelized chunks of pineapple bathed in their own reduced juices and a melting scoop of vanilla ice cream made for a delectable finale to the meal. If you’re in the mood for something more substantial, Kasey’s also has a massive bread pudding and a chocolate stout cake, in addition to apple galette and a stout float.It’s nice to see a restaurant striking out for new ground, both in terms of geography and the New American blend on its menu. Kasey’s is a welcome addition to the neighborhood.
Kasey’s Restaurant & Pub400 Washington SE241-3801kaseysabq.comHours: 11am to 10pm Monday through Saturday10am to 2pm Sunday brunchPrice range: $9-$27 entréesExtras: Happy hour specialsThe Alibi recommends: Reuben eggrolls, rib eye steak, pineapple foster
